Zimmern: “completely rotten, mushy onions.”
Bourdain: “…Your breath will smell as if you’d been French-kissing your dead grandmother.”
Alfred Russell Wallace, some naturalist in the 1800’s: “After a fruit-eating bat has pee’d on it.”
Henri Mouhot, French naturalist: “On first tasting it I thought it like the flesh of some animal in a state of putrefaction.”
BBC: “It has been likened to rotting onions, unwashed socks and even carrion in custard, but the most accurate description by far is that of a sewer full of rotting pineapples.”
Richard Sterling, travel/food writer: “… its odor is best described as pig-shit, turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock. It can be smelled from yards away. Despite its great local popularity, the raw fruit is forbidden from some establishments such as hotels, subways and airports, including public transportation in Southeast Asia.”
Lovely.
I grew up eating the fresh durian during the summers that we’d go back to Hong Kong, so it’s something that my family has always loved. To me, it’s creamy, luscious, custardy. I would choose durian over the finest cheese. In fact, it’s so creamy that I’ve used durian as a “cheese” to spread on crackers!
MARK MY WORDS: I think durian is going to be next big good-for-you-make-millions multi level marketing thing, like mangosteen and acai. Can you imagine if some company claimed that durian is the “Asian secret” to eternally youthful skin? And you have to smear this durian stuff on your face nightly as a mask?
Yeah, I’d be lickin’ that mask right off. (ewww. I know. I disgust you!)
Durian Virgin? Come to Mama…
Ok, so if you’re a durian virgin, I’ve got a very, very tame recipe for you.
While fresh durian is hard to find outside of metro cities with a large Asian markets, frozen durian is pretty good. The durian fruit is frozen at its peak of ripeness, but will lack the pungent aroma and taste of fresh durian, which is a really good thing if you have asshole neighbors, which thankfully, I don’t anymore (no, not you Lisa!)
Ask your Asian grocer if they carry frozen durian. If they do not, beg, plead and bribe them until they succumb to the durian love fest.
Making frozen yogurt with the durian was absolutely perfect. The yogurt is tangy, smooth and refreshing - a perfect pairing for a fruit that is considered a “heat” fruit, meaning the fruit has heating properties vs. the usual cooling properties of fruit. Ok, will go into that whole cooling/heating foods thing in another post.
Frozen Durian from Thailand
Defrosted durian looks like this. Not so bad, right? There are several large brown seeds inside the fruit.
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Durian Frozen Yogurt
16 ounces Greek yogurt or 32 ounces whole milk yogurt
4 ounces frozen durian fruit
1/2 cup sugar
If you are using whole milk yogurt (and not the Greek yogurt), you’ll need to strain out the water (whey). Line your fine meshed sieve with a double-layer of cheesecloth. Spoon the yogurt in, and let it sit propped over a deep bowl in the refrigerator for at least four hours. Discard the whey (water.) If you are using Greek-style yogurt, no need to strain, just use as is.
Use your hands to scoop out and discard the large seeds. The durian should be soft enough at room temperature to use a potato masher or whisk to smush and break up the durian. In a bowl, mix the yogurt, durian and sugar together. Taste and if add more durian if it’s not durian-y enough for you! Refrigerate for 1 hour or overnight.
Following the your ice cream maker’s insturctions, churn, baby, churn the durian yogurt until the mixture is the consistency of soft ice cream.
***
Who else loves durian?
Chez Pim makes Sweet Sticky Rice with Durian and Coconut Milk Sauce
Malaysia’s Best loves Durian Butter Cake
Wokking Mum whipped up a batch of Durian Cupcakes
how about you? Have you ever had Durian?
***
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August 7th, 2008 at 12:50 pm
I’ll admit I’m too scared to try it. The quotes you cite–plus the fact that the defrosted durian looks like severed body parts–aren’t really helping. I think I’ll stick to mangosteen!
August 7th, 2008 at 12:54 pm
I am durian lover!! Love the smell and the taste of it. Just soo sad that durian is hardly to find also the price is expensive here:(
I made martabak durian one day and surely I will try this recipe.
August 7th, 2008 at 12:56 pm
OMG no. Durian is bad bad bad.
After being told that oh all the stuff here is frozen, you’ll like the fresh durian so much better, I decided to suck it up and try a taste of the just picked from the tree durian during a trip to Malaysia. It definitely was creamier than the frozen stuff but it still tasted like unwashed socks. Bleh!
And btw, if you’re inland at all, just because the durian still has the spiny skin on it doesn’t mean it wasn’t frozen before.
August 7th, 2008 at 1:05 pm
Woman !!! Are you kidding … Durian !!!! eeeeeuuukkkkkk !!!!! lol
i cant believe how so many people actually like this stuff ! I can almost smell it stink up till here ! Sorrie …
August 7th, 2008 at 1:06 pm
But i’ll tell you what i like … the shot of the frozen yogurt scoop is simply lovely. Well taken !
August 7th, 2008 at 1:26 pm
Durian is delicious. No lie. I didn’t even have to “learn” to like it. I’ve liked it ever since my mom gave it to me as a kid. Durian ice cream is the best!
August 7th, 2008 at 1:34 pm
Never had it but I’d definitely try it…now I just need to find it
August 7th, 2008 at 1:37 pm
No, I’m sorry. I adore you, but FUCK no! It’s all yours.
August 7th, 2008 at 2:05 pm
I couldn’t get past the smell at all in Malaysia to even try it. There were signs in all the hotels “No Durian”!
August 7th, 2008 at 2:08 pm
I got to try fresh durian once. The smell was something to get past, and I kinda liked it. I could see how people could love it. I had to tell myself that I was eating something more like a cheese, because if your brain is expecting “fruit” durian is quite shocking. But if you’re expecting “cheese” which I think is a perfect description, than you should be quite pleased.
August 7th, 2008 at 2:08 pm
I meant I liked the fruit, not the smell….
August 7th, 2008 at 2:11 pm
A small coughing fit has seized me and I hold a handkerchief to my nose, politely shaking my head “no”, and turn away, eyes streaming. More for you, dear.
August 7th, 2008 at 2:22 pm
SusanV’s “severed body parts” had me cackling. Yup, durian produces all these reactions every time - love it to pulp or absolutely detest it.
I loved it as a child. Our frontyard had a durian tree. Strangely I couldn’t eat it fresh anymore after puberty although I can eat cooked durian (no fake durian essence, please; they’re the worst!). Mmm, physiologists, please explain this one.
Cooking mellows the flavour and smell, methinks. The durian butter cake should be good. Another one is durian bubur cha-cha - a sweet soup with coconut milk and pieces of unripe durian (no need to throw those away!). My fav is durian cooked with sugar till it becomes a sticky brownish cake, then you roll it in plastic wrap when cool enough; cut into chunks and enjoy. ^_^
August 7th, 2008 at 2:28 pm
I had to eat it to prove my worth to my future in-laws
It is an acquired taste, for sure. You have to get it past your nose but once you do, it’s not that bad. Especially the really luscious and sweet varieties sold in Malaysia.
August 7th, 2008 at 2:34 pm
I like durian, but prefer to eat it holding my nose which sometimes makes it hard to breathe. I swear some parts of Indonesia smell like durian so the thought of it is a little nostalgic at times.
August 7th, 2008 at 2:47 pm
Ohhh Durian!! Yummy! I guess you either hate it or you love it. Probably like the Hong Kong fermented stinky tofu. I am going back to Malaysia in Sept so I better remember to put eating durians in the list of things to eat. I have not tried any frozen ones here, don’t want to spoil my memories of durian incase it taste bad…..after being frozen and travelling so many miles
August 7th, 2008 at 3:54 pm
Hell yea! I can’t stand durian as a young child, but the taste grew up on me. Unfortunately, now i’m living in the States…which is very intolerant to durian eaters
August 7th, 2008 at 4:01 pm
I love durian, but haven’t had it fresh for years. I have had to settle for the paste my mom smuggles back for me from Thailand.
I think it just takes a sophisticated palate to enjoy this fruit
August 7th, 2008 at 4:31 pm
I have never eaten durian ’cause I can’t get past the smell. And my mouth is right under my nose so it’s never going to make it there. I liken its stink to the “stinky tofu” that smells equally bad–like a bad fart or an overripe porta-potty. Thankfully there is no smell-o-vision with your post in this case and all I can see is a gorgeously photographed ball of ice-cream! Oh well, more for you durian-lovers! whew!
August 7th, 2008 at 5:12 pm
Love, love, love, love, love, love durian! Not advisable to eat too much of them esp in summer though. I made that mistake a couple of mth ago and a few hours later my temperature soared to 103f. Love durian! yeah I know I’ve said that already.
August 7th, 2008 at 6:10 pm
It can’t possibly be worse than the decomposed shark meat that is a delicacy in Iceland (I tried a teensy-weensy piece while in Reykjavik and I lived to tell the tale). I think Scottish haggis is far more vile as it is all the nasty bits of sheep plus blood stuffed into a bladder or something….and I’ve eaten that on several occasions. So, Jaden, I will give durian a try. Great post, as usual. Happy Birthday tomorrow!
August 7th, 2008 at 7:08 pm
I love durian! And I miss the ones you can get in Malaysia so much–there is nothing better! But I’ve had to make-do with the ones from Thailand that you get frozen here. My kids like it so far (better to get them used to it early so they won’t be turned off later. Between you and Bee, you guys are making me really miss home…
August 7th, 2008 at 8:28 pm
ewwww! lol, i HATE the smell of durian! my chef compared the smell to rotting flesh, and i agree. the taste is pretty decent though (kinda vanilla-y, garlicky, custard)… maybe i should try to frozen kind if it doesn’t smell too strong…
August 7th, 2008 at 8:34 pm
You sold me. I have seen fresh lately and am tempted to try it. I just dont want to deal with my small dysfuntional building and crazy janititor who goes through my trash( I can just imagine what he would say as he encountered the reamins of the fruit). But frozen is a novel ideal way to try it.
August 7th, 2008 at 8:57 pm
LOVE DURIAN, fresh rather than frozen! Had durian ice cream, durian cake, durian pie. Will definitely be giving your durian yogurt recipe a try this weekend.
August 7th, 2008 at 9:28 pm
absolutely adore durians. It’s the season now in Singapore/Malaysia..and I’m not there! *storm feet*
The yogurt looks so thick and creamy. Makes me want an ice-cream maker right now.
August 7th, 2008 at 9:33 pm
Would you compare it to a German Limburger cheese? Limburger does smell like smelly socks, although it has a nice creamy flavor, so maybe like Iron Stef said, if you go into it thinking it tastes like a strong cheese, maybe it’s worth a try to those of us that appreciate stinky cheese?
On the subject of Limburger cheese, maybe I shouldn’t gross everyone out, but apparently some forms of mosquitos are equally attracted to the scent of Limburger cheese as they are to the smell of human feet. Just don’t take it camping with you.
August 7th, 2008 at 9:47 pm
Best durians are from Malaysia. Thailand durians tasted creamy but lack the strong smell as do Malaysian durians.
August 7th, 2008 at 9:50 pm
It’s durian season here in Malaysia, and the whole country smells of durian.
Durian butter cake would be good, but it kinda diminishes the flavour. One of my favourite desserts here is a durian cheesecake. The combination of the cheese and durian is amazing. Sadly, my favourite baker refuses to give me his recipe! Am hoping he’ll at least leave the recipe to me in his Will.
August 7th, 2008 at 9:56 pm
lol…i blv u, it’s going to be a big marketing stunt soon
August 7th, 2008 at 10:13 pm
Lynne, you try it first….then show a house…..ha!!
August 7th, 2008 at 10:16 pm
This year’s harvest in Malaysia have been good, so durian is really cheap now! The flavour of the season is Maoshanhuang (King of Cat Mountain?), a meaty, luscious bittersweet durian. lovely. Mum who hails from M’sia taught me the addictive way people eat it back home: with rice, plus a sprinkling of salt. to get rid of the ‘heat’, lightly salted water drunk from the husk is supposed to do the trick. or eating ‘cooling’ mangosteen together with durian!
August 7th, 2008 at 10:32 pm
I’m trying it, Kenny - wanna see a house afterwards???!!
Tomorrow will beging the Great Durian Hunt!!!
August 7th, 2008 at 10:35 pm
Durian is an acquired taste for me .. I love the taste but not the smell … my MIL gave us two boxes of durians and our home was engulged in durian smell for several days after
The ice cream yoghurt looks heavenly 
August 7th, 2008 at 10:47 pm
It’s your birthday…d d (those are musical notes…lol)8/8/08 on my side of the world!! Have a good one. I guess there is one thing positive about having thyroid problems…I am not allowed to eat durian!!! haha
August 7th, 2008 at 11:48 pm
Oohhh,a cool and creamy durian dessert is always perfect for summer. It looks wonderful and so simple! Just 3 ingredients, wow.
Durian is really exquisite if one can get past the aroma. I have a really funny story about cracking open a durian at the nail shop last week. You should have seen the customers faces, it was priceless. I’m gonna write about it soon, it’s was a hilarious day.
August 8th, 2008 at 3:51 am
I have this weird sense of wanting to try new things … provided I have a large piece of something that I love nearby that I can use to rinse down whatever I’m trying. I’ve never seen this fruit, but you can bet if I do, I’ll be tempted to try a teeny, tiny bite. And then wash it down with a handful of peaches or something!
August 8th, 2008 at 4:29 am
My dream is to rub the most fragrant, richest, most luscious durian meat all over celebrity food experts such as Zimmern, Bourdain, et al. and maybe have Jaden lick it off? (opps, mr. steamy, hope you arent reading this?) Yes, I am THAT perverted.
August 8th, 2008 at 6:56 am
I have never heard of Durian before.
August 8th, 2008 at 9:04 am
I liked it when I tried it fresh off the tree in KL - it reminded me of ultra creamy onion-y custard - if such thing ever existed - but I don’t think it’s anywhere near as bad as everyone says. But then I adore stinky cheese. And the smell of horse … dung.
So weird or not - I’m really checking in today to wish my favourite foodie & fellow 08-08-08 birthday-person a HUGE Happy Birthday & big hugs & kisses for a great day [& night!]. How auspicious can you get?! Also, thank you thank you thank you for all the marvellous recipes & images.
xxx jules
August 8th, 2008 at 12:26 pm
I’m with the quotes, durian tastes like evil. Old funky evil. Willing to try the ice cream if its ever presented to me… but with a bit of wariness.
August 8th, 2008 at 1:02 pm
I was in the produce section at 99Ranch(an Asian supermarket chain on the West Coast of US, primarily California) minding my own business and then I smelled this rank, fetid dying smell. I look around and what do I spy? A box full of Durian. Needless to say I back off a good 10 feet so I am not within olfactory range. Damn that stuff.
I will Never, ever, ever try that stuff.
August 8th, 2008 at 3:34 pm
Durian is my fave fruit ever! The fermented durian is even better with sambal belacan!
August 8th, 2008 at 8:40 pm
I used to eat them and love them so much when I was young. But stopped eating them at one day at secondary school (or junior high in US context). I dunno why, but I just stopped eating it. Maybe my durian quota for life has been used up! LOL
August 9th, 2008 at 7:28 am
I luuurrrrvveee durian! haven’t had it for ages! we used to even eat it with rice!
August 11th, 2008 at 5:21 am
Years ago my kids and I were in Malaysia for some weeks when my husband was filming there. All the hotels we stayed in, and the aircraft we flew in, had big NO DURIAN signs up. They were a round red circle with a black durian in the middle and a red X across it, and the wording beneath. Never having come across durian I was intrigued by the signs, why would hotels and airlines ban it. When my daughter and I spotted Durian icecream amongst the flavours at an icecream parlour we both thought our moment had come. Never again! bletch! it was like eating garlic flavoured custard over an open sewer. Truly awful, and the worst part was I couldn’t get the taste out of my mouth for ages no matter what I ate or drank.
Wing Yip our local Asian supermarket in London stocks fresh durian in season and I give them a wide berth. Durians, you can keep ‘em.
August 11th, 2008 at 9:57 pm
I love durian! It is in season now in the Philippines. I really think there’s way too much hype about it’s smell. People, it’s a FRUIT!! Other people eat snakes and rodents, a fruit can’t be that bad. By the way, I don’t hate its smell. I love it actually. Wink.
It’s like extra srong vanilla or vanilla with a kick for me. It’s perfect to eat with a glass of ice cold Coca-cola.
August 12th, 2008 at 9:34 am
I just had FRESH durians over the past 4 days consecutively!!! I can still imagine the aroma on my fingers
August 12th, 2008 at 1:41 pm
I’d say Durian smells like a stinky bathroom. It’s interting how Andrew Zimmerman could eat anything, but only the Durian got him. He couldn’t swallow it. It has got something to do with the texture, he said. Well, I eat Durian, though I don’t profess to love it. The smell can be strong for anyone not used to it. But in the Philippines, we also have the durian icecream and the durian candies (my fave)… so yummy…
August 15th, 2008 at 12:57 pm
Jaden, you are KEELING me, you really are.. freaking hilarious post!
August 16th, 2008 at 3:12 am
OMG - I used to live down the street from an asian supermarket in San Francisco. You would’ve loved it because they had durian by the crate loads!! Every week there was a new shipment. It was the first time that I’d seen it anywhere and I thought it was cousin of lychee. Of course I had to get one because it seemed to be the hottest thing at the market, all the customers raved about how good it was but failed to tell me how bad it smelled. It was a bit odorous at purchase but I walked it home, left the kitchen, when I came back -whoa! BUT, it was tasty, when I took pieces of it, ate it outside in open air, and swallowed before inhaling =) Gotta try it at least once. It’s like when you first have sashimi, you think raw fish?!, but then you’d prefer it over california rolls any day.
August 16th, 2008 at 3:29 am
Ok, I’m sitting here alone (well, except for the 10 pair of kitty eyes staring me down!) in my kichen eating my dish of fresh-out-of-the-freezer homemade Durian frozen yogurt! It’s quite tasty - not sure if that’s just the frozen sugary greek yogurt talking or the Durian. It’s definitely stinky. Kind of reminds me of VERY strong garlic chives. So I’m eating garlic chives frozen yogurt. Will I smell like this tomorrow??? Hmmm.
August 19th, 2008 at 9:17 am
Durian is excellent stuff. The first time I had it was on Lombok in Indonesia. Lombok is dry, so the durian has less water content than usual, therefore the taste is even more full-bodied.
Well, my Balinese friend and I were driving around Lombok looking for the road that led to this little village we encountered this roadside stand selling durian. My friend loves durian and I think that he said that it doesn’t grow on Bali.
The stand had 13 durnian and I bought them all — at quite a steep price. We went back to the hotel on Senggigi beach area and ate them all on a veranda. I had 7 and he had 6. Then next morning he told me that his stomach had been ‘broken’ by so many durian. I was fine!
August 19th, 2008 at 5:58 pm
The boy looooooves durian…. I don’t know where he gets it as an English boy who never encountered Asian food until university years but he can’t get enough of the stuff. His response to this post?
Eyes shut and going “MMMmmmnnnnn”
August 20th, 2008 at 9:21 am
Oh durian, my god. I live in a country full of them but ironically can’t have them since my husband would absolutely NOT hear of having them in the house. Eating them is wonderful, the aftermath though, does not smell or taste delightful at all. Neither is the smell delightful when I was into the food hall at Carrefour because there, it just smells nasty. I think I shall stop rambling and resume licking the screen. Yummy.
August 21st, 2008 at 7:57 am
I have to say that durian is one of my all-time favorite fruits. I am an addict and get my dad to buy it at least every 2 months (they’re quite expensive here in BC). I love watching my dad hack at the outer casing with the pry-bar
what a sight to see…
August 21st, 2008 at 12:47 pm
i love Durian and i am so glad you posted this recipe! looks yummy! (i must try it out…) thanks and i’m so looking forward to more amazing recipes!
August 21st, 2008 at 6:57 pm
My asian grocer wants to know if my husband is oriental? Not according to the “moyle” (the rabbi who does the circumcision on jewish males taking away the best part!!)
August 21st, 2008 at 6:58 pm
BTW now i have to go blog searching cause I swear I read this somewhere today….
August 25th, 2008 at 2:57 pm
those descriptions are hilarious — i’m frightened, but i totally want to try it! i’m particularly impressed that you’ve found something that can be both a cheese substitute and an ice cream flavor — that is no small feat!
August 28th, 2008 at 10:50 am
I have to say that after going to Malaysia, exposing one to locals friends who told us what are the “best” durians, they say the best ones are from Penang - bitter (think strong coffee - so strong, better, aromatic/pungent) and VERY creamy.
As for me, I’m actually neutral about durian. I don’t mind if people love it and eat it. For some reason:
1. I kinda have a less sensitivity nose to smell, so the smell doesn’t hit me as hard (unless we’re going to an enclosed space where the durian is stored - then I’ll smell it, but I won’t mind it too much).
2. I prefer crunchy fruits, or the least creamy bits of the durian flesh. The durian lovers claim it’s the worst part, but hey, everyone gets what they want (more for them, which is fine by me).
I think of durian as the really strong pungent cheese (those blue cheese or vintage cheese with a really soft, creamy texture). The “good” durian is subjective - some like a really sweet durian, or a really aromatic, bitter one (think strong black coffee - bitter, aromatic/pungent).
Its creamy texture is literally like cream - I’m thinking somewhere like a ripe avocado and ripe banana when you mush it for banana bread.
Of course, frozen durians aren’t going to be as good as the fresh ones. But it’s a good thing homesick people can have to remind them of home.
I heard another counter “therapy” for the “heat” of the durian is drinking water out of the inner rind of the durian shell, and also using that water to rinse your hands will get rid of the smell.
Mangosten is another popular counter action for it “cools” the heat of the durian.
Salt and water is the third I’ve heard.
September 9th, 2008 at 2:00 am
Well, I have never tasted a durian and to my shame I have to admit, that I even don’t know what it is. I have never seen it here in Munich. But now I will keep my eyes open - I love to taste ‘new’ fruits.
September 9th, 2008 at 10:36 am
Love Durians and love eating it with good company. Your durian ice cream recipe reminds me of Singapore durian puffs - it is simply puff stuffed with durian cream paste eaten cold. The best durians are from Malaysia.